Decoding The Tailor’s Code A Journey Into Savile Row’s Secret Language

Imagine stepping into the esteemed workshop of a Savile Row tailor, the air thick with the scent of fresh fabric and the buzz of concentrated craftsmanship. You’re here for a bespoke suit, but as you discuss styles and fabrics, the tailor’s language spirals into an enigmatic mix of phrases like “Whipping the cat” and “Having a balloon.” Confused? You’re not alone. Ever wondered what your tailor really means during these cryptic exchanges? Let’s decode the lingo and bring you into the fold of tailor’s speak—a language as rich and textured as the fabrics they work with.  
Tailors on London’s Savile Row have long employed a unique set of terms that sound more like something out of a spy novel than garment making. Here are a few key phrases to get you started on speaking tailor:
  • “Balloon”: Ever heard someone say they’re “having a balloon”? On Savile Row, this doesn’t mean they’re enjoying a party favor but rather experiencing a week without work or pay—a situation most would hope to avoid.
  • “Basting”: This isn’t reserved for turkeys alone; in tailoring, basting refers to the long temporary stitches used to hold fabric pieces together before the final sewing, crucial for achieving that flawless fit.
  • “Bespoke”: Perhaps the most famous term of all, bespoke means a garment made from scratch to a customer’s specifications, often requiring numerous fittings and over 50 hours of meticulous handcrafting.
Picture this: You’re deep in discussion about your new suit when the tailor casually mentions, “We’ll need to avoid cutting turf here and go straight to a draft.” Here’s how that translates:
  • “Cutting turf” refers to clumsy or unskilled work, definitely not something you want associated with your new suit.
  • “Draft” is the blueprint or plan from which your suit will be cut, essential for custom-fitting attire.
Curious if the tailor thinks you’re being too particular? If you hear “Tab” under their breath, they might just be labeling you a fussy customer.  
As you marvel at the array of fabric choices, the tailor might suggest, “Let’s select a canvas that lends itself to a soft sew.” In tailor speak:
  • “Canvas” refers to the sturdy fabric used inside suits to give structure and shape, a crucial element for a well-tailored suit.
  • “Soft sew” describes a fabric that’s easy to work with, ensuring a smoother tailoring process and a comfortable fit.
Feeling enthusiastic about the choices, you nod in agreement, and the tailor adds, “We’ll go for a small seams approach to keep it sleek.” This means:
  • “Small seams” implies a subtle and refined stitching method, ideal for creating a polished look that enhances the suit’s elegance.
As measurements are taken, the tailor might compliment your choice, noting, “This will certainly not be a bodger’s job.” Here, “Bodger” is a term used disparagingly for shoddy workmanship, so their assurance indicates you’re in for quality craftsmanship.
Now that you’re getting the hang of these quirky expressions, let’s test your knowledge. If a tailor says they need to “whip the cat,” are they: A) Discussing plans to adopt a pet at the local shelter. B) Talking about traveling around to work in private homes. C) Complaining about having to work overtime. Hint: It’s not about pets or overtime!

Understanding the unique language of your tailor can enrich the experience of getting a bespoke suit, adding an element of fun and tradition to the craftsmanship that goes into creating your perfect garment. Next time you visit your tailor, impress them with your knowledge of their trade’s lingo, and watch the mystery unravel as you step into the world of bespoke tailoring.

Ready to translate more tailor speak and enjoy the intricacies of bespoke fashion? Book your appointment at Marc Oliver and become fluent in the art of tailoring.
 

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